DOG BATH

DOG BATH

Dog bath is an indispensable act of hygiene, a prerequisite for any subsequent grooming and for maintaining healthy skin and coat.

However, dog bath requires a certain method and preparations that will help transform this moment, a little painful for your doggie, into a real moment of complicity. The ideal is to get your dog used to the bathing ritual as early as possible and especially to the drying that follows, especially if you use a hairdryer.

When to give your dog a bath?

As a general rule, dogs should only be bathed when they are really dirty, when they start to give off an unpleasant odor or if, during a walk, they have rolled around in something that smells particularly bad. Alas, droppings, manure, dung, and various excrement tend to attract them irresistibly like magnets!

Bathing can also take place if you notice that their hair is very tangled and brushing becomes ineffective or if their skin itches. Dogs should not be bathed too often as this will damage the protective layer of sebum on their skin. A maximum bathing frequency of every month or even every 2-3 months is usually more than sufficient.

What do I need?

The simplest way is to use your own bathtub or, failing that, your shower tray. There are also tubs - similar to small children's pools - specially designed to bathe your pet and sold in pet stores. A garden or, if you don't have one, a balcony is required to install the tub.

If you have a very small bathroom and/or a large dog, you should know that there are "dog washes" in some cities. These are washing stations where owners can come and wash their dogs themselves for a fairly small fee. The washing station provides large tubs as well as areas for brushing, mowing, clipping the animal's nails and of course drying it. The advantage? No need to clean the bathroom completely.

Outside the bathtub, you will also need a brush to untangle your dog's hair before bathing. Once the hairs are wet, the knots tighten and become almost impossible to untangle. So remember to brush your dog meticulously before washing him. Use this time to inspect your dog from every angle and check for small wounds, lumps, parasites, etc.

If your doggie is not a fan of the toilet with an ace of escape, it will be recommended to tie him up to prevent him from injuring himself. Ideally, give him a collar that you will attach to the sidewall using a small hook fixed in the wall or mounted on a suction cup. To prevent him from slipping, equip the bathtub or shower tray with a non-slip mat or, failing that, an old towel which, once wet, will do the trick.

Of course, make sure you have a special shampoo for dogs. Ban the use of shampoo for human beings, including baby shampoo, which is not adapted to the nature of its fragile skin. There are also detangling products to be applied after shampooing, to be reserved for dogs with long hair and if brushing has not been able to get rid of all the knots.

Finally, provide plenty of clean towels for drying. If your dog is not afraid to, you can use a hairdryer to speed up the process. There are even special hair dryers for dogs that are more powerful, so you can dry your doggies in no time at all.

Dog bath: How to do it?

1. Place your dog in the empty bathtub or under the shower then, once calm, wet your dog with lukewarm water (between 28 and 35°C maximum) using the hand shower. Make sure that the water penetrates well under the topcoat to the dog's skin. Wet the dog's entire body, taking care that the water does not run into his eyes or ears. You can even protect your dog's ears by inserting a small piece of sterile gauze into them while you are washing.

2. Once the coat is well wet, apply a few drops of shampoo all over the dog's body and emulsify the product without forgetting to rub his belly, the underside of the tail and the chest. Massage your doggie while talking to him and finish by cleaning his paws. Take a dab of shampoo if necessary and massage the paws without forgetting the gaps between his fingers.

3. Then rinse your dog with warm water. Rinse abundantly until there is absolutely no more shampoo and the rinsing water becomes perfectly clear. Again, be careful with eyes and ears! Rinsing is a crucial step. Incomplete rinsing will dull the hair and irritate your pet's skin. If you use a detangling product, apply the product after shampooing followed by a complete rinse and then rinse again for a long time to remove any product residue on your pet's skin.

4. Once the washing phase is over, proceed to dry. After letting your dog snort, apply a towel to your pet's back and rub gently. Replace the towel with another, dry until the animal no longer feels the need to shake.

You can complete this summary drying with a hairdryer if your pet is not afraid of it. Indeed, this device, harmless for us, is very noisy and all the more so for the ultra-developed hearing of our dear pets. Therefore, it can  be particularly frightening if the animal has not been used to it since its earliest childhood. If he is afraid of it, don't insist and let him dry out in the warmth, inside if it's cold outside. If he tolerates hair drying, take care not to burn your pet's skin. Set it to moderate temperature and run the hairdryer at a respectable distance from his coat and do not stop moving the hairdryer.

5. Finish this moment with a reward: a treat or a game for your dog that will make him forget a “dirty quarter of an hour” he just spent!

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DOG CONSTIPATION

DOG CONSTIPATION

Constipation can be a benign or serious condition for our dog friends. What causes it? When to consult and how to relieve it?

Signs of constipation in a dogs

We talk about constipation in dogs when the emission of their stools is too rare and their stools are too hard.

For the dog, constipation leads to difficulties in defecating, or even pain during defecation, or a total impossibility to defecate in the most serious cases.

Causes of constipation in dogs

Constipation in dogs can be explained by various causes, both benign and more serious:

Food-related constipation

Recent dietary changes or inadequate nutrition in dogs can lead to constipation. Constipation can occur if the dog's diet is not rich enough in soluble and insoluble fiber or, on the contrary, is too rich in fiber and coupled with a decrease in water consumption.

Similarly, the ingestion of non-digestible elements such as bones, sand, hair, plastic can cause constipation with or without colic obstruction.

A change in life that causes constipation

A change in lifestyle or a move can cause constipation problems in sensitive dogs.

Constipation and sedentary

Lack of physical activity can lead to slow bowel movements. The same is true for dogs that are getting older and for dogs that suffer from obesity. This slowing of transit then causes dehydration of the intestinal contents which becomes hard and impacted.

My dog no longer defecates because his digestive tract is empty

A dog may no longer produce excrement simply because its digestive tract is empty. This can happen when the animal has eaten little or nothing for several days or when it has suffered from diarrhea that has completely emptied its intestines (this is called post-diarrhea constipation). In both cases, normal digestive transit should be restored quickly if the dog starts to eat normally again. In the opposite case, anorexia that lasts more than 3 days should prompt you to consult a veterinarian.

Constipation of iatrogenic origin

Many medications such as antihistamines, antacids or diuretics can cause constipation. It is also not uncommon for animals that have undergone anaesthesia to experience an episode of constipation following the examination or procedure.

Behavioral constipation

Constipation can also be caused by a refusal to defecate the dog. Some dogs are so anxious outside the home that they systematically forget to defecate. The feces that are retained in the terminal portion of the colon may dry out and cause difficulty in evacuating it. The solution to this type of "behavioural constipation" is behavioural therapy with the help of a behavioural dog trainer or behavioural veterinarian.

The pain that causes constipation

Constipation may also be related to the inability of the dog to crouch down to relieve itself due to pain or neurological damage that prevents it from doing so. Pain may also be localized to the rectum or perianal area or anal gland abscesses are present.

Constipation due to colic hypomotility

Intestinal motility refers to the ability of the digestive tract to move its contents forward during the digestion of food through muscle contractions. It is also called intestinal peristalsis. In dogs, this capacity can be impaired and can cause constipation when the animal is in suffering:

• a systemic affection such as hypothyroidism, hypokalemia or hypercalcemia,
• a localized neuromuscular disorder in the case of pelvic nerve damage or abnormalities of the the functioning of the autonomic nervous system, for example.
• a permanent dilation of the colon called the megacolon.

Constipation due to colic obstruction

The impossibility or difficulties that the dog may have to relieve itself may finally be due to a colic obstruction that may result :

1. The ingestion of a foreign body

The dog that has swallowed a foreign object then tries to relieve himself without succeeding. He may even experience pain during his unsuccessful expulsive efforts called tenesmus. Sometimes the dog is able to eliminate small amounts of fluids mixed with its stool that can be mistaken for diarrhea. Blood may also be expelled when the foreign body obstructing the digestive tract has caused damage to the digestive tract. These symptoms may be accompanied by vomiting and a refusal to eat.

2. A narrowing of the rectum

Narrowing of the rectum may be due to the presence of a mass inside or outside the intestine that compresses the intestine. The mass can be of different types: tumour, abscess, increase in prostate size etc. In this type of situation, the diameter and appearance of the excrement that the dog manages to expel is often altered.

3. A perineal hernia

This is a displacement of the rectum - between other pelvic and/or abdominal organs - due to a weakening of the support muscles around the anus. In addition to difficulty passing stool, dogs with perineal hernia often have swelling next to the anus.

Dog constipation: when to consult?

It is necessary to consult your veterinarian when constipation:

• Occurs in a puppy less than 6 months old, in an old dog and/or already suffering from a chronic disease,
• Extends beyond 48 hours,
• Is accompanied by one or more other digestive or non-digestive symptoms: pain, presence of blood in the stools, lack of appetite, fever, swollen belly, vomiting, etc..,
• Degrades the general condition of the dog, which then appears weak, dehydrated, dehydrated...
• Intervenes when you suspect your dog has ingested a foreign body.

All of these risk factors should prompt you to call your veterinarian as soon as possible. Depending on the cause of the constipation, the veterinarian has many therapeutic options available to relieve your dog, including enemas, fiber-enriched foods, laxative medications, and even surgery.

How to relieve a constipated dog?

If the dog's general condition is not deteriorated and his constipation does not present any of the risk factors listed above, it is possible to relieve the dog by ensuring that he gets enough hydration, offering him more physical activity, and enriching his diet with fiber. This can be done by adding a few cooked vegetables to his bowl or 1/4 to 1 teaspoon per day of psyllium seeds.

If these are not enough to relieve your dog's constipation, if it lasts longer than 48 hours, or if it's accompanied by other symptoms, consult your veterinarian immediately.

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DOG PHYSICAL THERAPY

DOG PHYSICAL THERAPY

When can my dog benefit from physiotherapy?

Physiotherapy is a health science whose role is to allow you to regain your maximum physical capacities. The techniques of physiotherapy, and functional re-education, which have long been known to humans, are now being used successfully in animals. Your dog can benefit from them at some point in his life:

• He has just been surgery or is suffering from the after-effects of a trauma. Physiotherapy will help him to recover faster by fighting the pain and the harmful effects of immobilization.
• He presents neurological problems: partial or complete paralysis, deficiency of one or more limbs. Dog Physical Therapy and functional re-education are essential and very effective to obtain a as complete recovery as possible in the shortest possible time.
• He does not move as well as he used to, is reluctant to go up or down stairs, has difficulty getting up, walking, running, jumping. By fighting the pain, restoring mobility, strengthening his muscles, physiotherapy and rehabilitation will contribute to his comfort and joy of life.
• He is sedentary, gains weight, tends to become obese, lacks of: suppleness, strength and muscle. Dog Physical Therapy and functional re-education can allow him to regain and develop strength, balance, flexibility and preserve his health.

What are the treatment techniques used in physiotherapy and re-education?

We have a wide range of technical means at our disposal which can be classified into different categories:

1. Manual therapies (massage, stretching, reflexotherapy).

2. The physical means among which we will remember:

• Thermal agents: cold, heat
• Electro-therapy (analgesic and neuromuscular stimulation)
• Ultrasounds
• Shock waves
• High-frequency vibratory analgesic therapy.

3. Passive, active therapeutic exercises, to improve flexibility, develop superficial muscles and improve the perception of the body.

These means are not all used to treat an animal but are judiciously chosen according to the problem concerned, its specificity and adapted to each case, because, in reality, physiotherapy is a complex discipline. It is based on his in-depth knowledge of anatomy, physiology, biomechanical pathology, combined with his experience and know-how, that the veterinary physiotherapist will determine which means are the most suitable to treat each particular case.

Home Exercise: What is it all about?

Physiotherapists prescribes a simple exercise program for each patient, which you can carry out yourself at home. They will teach you how to do these exercises on the basis of written instructions and explanatory diagrams.

This is not a standardized program or one that is fixed in time. It can evolve according to the progress made and is established according to each case and the objectives initially set.

Simple exercises to implement, complementary to those practiced during the appointments, these exercises are fundamental for the long-term success of the rehabilitation and allow a faster improvement.

You must devote the necessary time to them, practice them regularly and scrupulously observe the instructions given. It is also the best way to spend valuable time with your partner and to strengthen the bonds of complicity that unite you.

How do I know my dog is suffering?

Unlike humans, animals rarely cry out when they are in pain, especially in cases of chronic pain. Therefore, without careful observation, the owner may not be aware that his dog is suffering. There are, some characteristic signs that must be deciphered:

• Vocalizations = complaints, groans
• Abnormal gait = hops, limps, doesn't put a leg down, lifts it constantly, nods his head, shuts his back, stands still
• General activity = reluctant to get up, lie down, walk, run, run up or down stairs, jumping
• Joy of life = sleeps more often or for a very long time during the day, does not rest at night, is not interested in the environment, responds poorly to caresses, to the voice, becomes irritable, grumpy
• Responses to palpation, caressing an area = tries to avoid, complains, moans, becomes aggressive
• Appetite = decreased, greatly decreased, refuses to eat
• Seeks to lick, bite an area
• Expressions of the face = grin, deformity, loss of liveliness of the gaze.

Why is the veterinarian the best person to practice physiotherapy and animal re-education?

Many people think that physiotherapy and re-education consists mainly of the use of a water walker. Having sophisticated equipment is not enough. In reality physiotherapy and animal rehabilitation is a complex discipline.

It is a medical specialty dedicated to the prevention, diagnosis, treatment and management of disabling conditions, disorders and injuries of the musculo-skeletal, neuromuscular and neurological systems.

The objective is to achieve the return of your pet to functional independence, which requires the rehabilitation of the body as a whole.

In order to establish a precise diagnosis and to set up an adapted and effective treatment protocol, it is necessary to call upon in-depth knowledge in particular in :

• Anatomy
• Physiology, neurophysiology
• Biomechanics
• Pathologies
• Nutrition, etc.

All of this combined with essential training, experience and expertise that only a veterinary physiotherapist can provide.

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DOG ALLERGIES: 7 WAYS TOSTOP THE ITCHING FAST

Dog Allergies: 7 Ways To Stop The Itching Fast

I'm going to be discussing dog allergies top seven ways to stop the itching fast. What’s causing your dog to do the scratching and itching? Probabilities are the cause is allergies, but exactly to what? It can be to food, grass, and house dust mites…. There literally are hundreds of allergens.

Allergies show up in many ways, it can be the respiratory signs such as runny eyes runny nose but more common or their series recurring.

I want to get into some of the home remedies have worked for me they may also work for you.

1.  Less allergenic food you need to be feeding, go and do a proper hypoallergenic food trial where you're feeding your dog a simple food very unique protein that they've never been on before for a minimum of eight weeks.

Now I've found commercially a diet of fish and sweet potato works very well such as this natural balanced food, I mean every dog is different, so you have to try different foods, there isn't just sort of one right food, but the main principle is unique protein simple minimal ingredients avoiding artificial colors, artificial flavors preservatives feeding that new diet for eight weeks.

2.  One adequate flea control, you want to make sure you're not dealing fleas or flea allergies, you can look at using a natural flea spray, there's one I have had good results with using cedar wood oil, and also flea control in your house, you can look using a natural product such as borax putting in the cracks and crevices.

3.  Regular bathing, this is one that can't be emphasized enough in terms of the benefits of taking away those surface allergens. So as soon as, your dog is coming in from outside washing their feet well and they're walking in the grass, many of these allergic dogs have grass allergens and what we're actually finding now is we used to call it a tepee or an inhaled allergy and we're now under the belief now that is much more of these allergens on the surface of your dog's skin that are causing the problem, so if we can keep those off your dog's skin we can go a long way in decreasing the symptoms of the itching, the chronic scratching, the pol licking, my own dog gets a weekly oatmeal shampoo in the summer, when his logic signs are much more serious he's getting a bath twice a week and then wiping his feet you know either with this commercial foot bath here I just put the damp towel when he comes in from outside.

4.  Antihistamines, there's natural and conventional ones for the big flare-up, so I'll use Benadryl dosing my own dog at point 5 mg per lb, that's 50 milligrams twenty five minutes a Benadryl for my 50-pound dog Jessie and I'm giving that twice daily if needed.

Lately I have been trying Vitamin C which has some antihistamine qualities, and this itching is decreasing. The Vitamin C dose is 100 mg per 10lbs twice daily.

5.  Essential fatty add acid supplements. If your dog has allergies, he needs to be on these. I am using supplement, Ultimate Canine Health Formula, which contains the EFA’s in the form of flax oil.

The omega-3 dose I suggests specifically for these allergic dogs is a 1000 mg per 10 lbs daily-this works out to  giving 1 tablespoon of flax oil per 50lbs daily to your dog.

6.  Probiotics, they're increasingly being used for dogs with allergies, these beneficial bacteria playing a big role in normalizing the overactive immune system, you're not gonna see an insulin response, but it's something that if you're gonna see response December between 4 to 12 weeks, so you need to be on them long enough before you can say they're not working or not, the lactobacillus dose is a 1/4 of a capsule for 10 lbs of body weight twice daily.

7.  The last increasingly used ingredient for allergies is colostrum. Research has found an ingredient know as praline-rich polypeptide (PRP) in bovine colostrum, it appears to be what is helping decrease the allergy symptoms. The colostrum dose for dogs with allergies varies based on the company, I advise giving 1/4 of the human dose per 20lbs daily.

I encourage you to be systematic about this, going over these top seven suggestions, and applying them to your dog. The allergies will not go away overnight, but if you're systematic about it and consistent with it you really can go a big way in dramatically improving the quality of your dog's life.

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