DOG BATH

DOG BATH

Dog bath is an indispensable act of hygiene, a prerequisite for any subsequent grooming and for maintaining healthy skin and coat.

However, dog bath requires a certain method and preparations that will help transform this moment, a little painful for your doggie, into a real moment of complicity. The ideal is to get your dog used to the bathing ritual as early as possible and especially to the drying that follows, especially if you use a hairdryer.

When to give your dog a bath?

As a general rule, dogs should only be bathed when they are really dirty, when they start to give off an unpleasant odor or if, during a walk, they have rolled around in something that smells particularly bad. Alas, droppings, manure, dung, and various excrement tend to attract them irresistibly like magnets!

Bathing can also take place if you notice that their hair is very tangled and brushing becomes ineffective or if their skin itches. Dogs should not be bathed too often as this will damage the protective layer of sebum on their skin. A maximum bathing frequency of every month or even every 2-3 months is usually more than sufficient.

What do I need?

The simplest way is to use your own bathtub or, failing that, your shower tray. There are also tubs - similar to small children's pools - specially designed to bathe your pet and sold in pet stores. A garden or, if you don't have one, a balcony is required to install the tub.

If you have a very small bathroom and/or a large dog, you should know that there are "dog washes" in some cities. These are washing stations where owners can come and wash their dogs themselves for a fairly small fee. The washing station provides large tubs as well as areas for brushing, mowing, clipping the animal's nails and of course drying it. The advantage? No need to clean the bathroom completely.

Outside the bathtub, you will also need a brush to untangle your dog's hair before bathing. Once the hairs are wet, the knots tighten and become almost impossible to untangle. So remember to brush your dog meticulously before washing him. Use this time to inspect your dog from every angle and check for small wounds, lumps, parasites, etc.

If your doggie is not a fan of the toilet with an ace of escape, it will be recommended to tie him up to prevent him from injuring himself. Ideally, give him a collar that you will attach to the sidewall using a small hook fixed in the wall or mounted on a suction cup. To prevent him from slipping, equip the bathtub or shower tray with a non-slip mat or, failing that, an old towel which, once wet, will do the trick.

Of course, make sure you have a special shampoo for dogs. Ban the use of shampoo for human beings, including baby shampoo, which is not adapted to the nature of its fragile skin. There are also detangling products to be applied after shampooing, to be reserved for dogs with long hair and if brushing has not been able to get rid of all the knots.

Finally, provide plenty of clean towels for drying. If your dog is not afraid to, you can use a hairdryer to speed up the process. There are even special hair dryers for dogs that are more powerful, so you can dry your doggies in no time at all.

Dog bath: How to do it?

1. Place your dog in the empty bathtub or under the shower then, once calm, wet your dog with lukewarm water (between 28 and 35°C maximum) using the hand shower. Make sure that the water penetrates well under the topcoat to the dog's skin. Wet the dog's entire body, taking care that the water does not run into his eyes or ears. You can even protect your dog's ears by inserting a small piece of sterile gauze into them while you are washing.

2. Once the coat is well wet, apply a few drops of shampoo all over the dog's body and emulsify the product without forgetting to rub his belly, the underside of the tail and the chest. Massage your doggie while talking to him and finish by cleaning his paws. Take a dab of shampoo if necessary and massage the paws without forgetting the gaps between his fingers.

3. Then rinse your dog with warm water. Rinse abundantly until there is absolutely no more shampoo and the rinsing water becomes perfectly clear. Again, be careful with eyes and ears! Rinsing is a crucial step. Incomplete rinsing will dull the hair and irritate your pet's skin. If you use a detangling product, apply the product after shampooing followed by a complete rinse and then rinse again for a long time to remove any product residue on your pet's skin.

4. Once the washing phase is over, proceed to dry. After letting your dog snort, apply a towel to your pet's back and rub gently. Replace the towel with another, dry until the animal no longer feels the need to shake.

You can complete this summary drying with a hairdryer if your pet is not afraid of it. Indeed, this device, harmless for us, is very noisy and all the more so for the ultra-developed hearing of our dear pets. Therefore, it can  be particularly frightening if the animal has not been used to it since its earliest childhood. If he is afraid of it, don't insist and let him dry out in the warmth, inside if it's cold outside. If he tolerates hair drying, take care not to burn your pet's skin. Set it to moderate temperature and run the hairdryer at a respectable distance from his coat and do not stop moving the hairdryer.

5. Finish this moment with a reward: a treat or a game for your dog that will make him forget a “dirty quarter of an hour” he just spent!

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DOG CONSTIPATION

DOG CONSTIPATION

Constipation can be a benign or serious condition for our dog friends. What causes it? When to consult and how to relieve it?

Signs of constipation in a dogs

We talk about constipation in dogs when the emission of their stools is too rare and their stools are too hard.

For the dog, constipation leads to difficulties in defecating, or even pain during defecation, or a total impossibility to defecate in the most serious cases.

Causes of constipation in dogs

Constipation in dogs can be explained by various causes, both benign and more serious:

Food-related constipation

Recent dietary changes or inadequate nutrition in dogs can lead to constipation. Constipation can occur if the dog's diet is not rich enough in soluble and insoluble fiber or, on the contrary, is too rich in fiber and coupled with a decrease in water consumption.

Similarly, the ingestion of non-digestible elements such as bones, sand, hair, plastic can cause constipation with or without colic obstruction.

A change in life that causes constipation

A change in lifestyle or a move can cause constipation problems in sensitive dogs.

Constipation and sedentary

Lack of physical activity can lead to slow bowel movements. The same is true for dogs that are getting older and for dogs that suffer from obesity. This slowing of transit then causes dehydration of the intestinal contents which becomes hard and impacted.

My dog no longer defecates because his digestive tract is empty

A dog may no longer produce excrement simply because its digestive tract is empty. This can happen when the animal has eaten little or nothing for several days or when it has suffered from diarrhea that has completely emptied its intestines (this is called post-diarrhea constipation). In both cases, normal digestive transit should be restored quickly if the dog starts to eat normally again. In the opposite case, anorexia that lasts more than 3 days should prompt you to consult a veterinarian.

Constipation of iatrogenic origin

Many medications such as antihistamines, antacids or diuretics can cause constipation. It is also not uncommon for animals that have undergone anaesthesia to experience an episode of constipation following the examination or procedure.

Behavioral constipation

Constipation can also be caused by a refusal to defecate the dog. Some dogs are so anxious outside the home that they systematically forget to defecate. The feces that are retained in the terminal portion of the colon may dry out and cause difficulty in evacuating it. The solution to this type of "behavioural constipation" is behavioural therapy with the help of a behavioural dog trainer or behavioural veterinarian.

The pain that causes constipation

Constipation may also be related to the inability of the dog to crouch down to relieve itself due to pain or neurological damage that prevents it from doing so. Pain may also be localized to the rectum or perianal area or anal gland abscesses are present.

Constipation due to colic hypomotility

Intestinal motility refers to the ability of the digestive tract to move its contents forward during the digestion of food through muscle contractions. It is also called intestinal peristalsis. In dogs, this capacity can be impaired and can cause constipation when the animal is in suffering:

• a systemic affection such as hypothyroidism, hypokalemia or hypercalcemia,
• a localized neuromuscular disorder in the case of pelvic nerve damage or abnormalities of the the functioning of the autonomic nervous system, for example.
• a permanent dilation of the colon called the megacolon.

Constipation due to colic obstruction

The impossibility or difficulties that the dog may have to relieve itself may finally be due to a colic obstruction that may result :

1. The ingestion of a foreign body

The dog that has swallowed a foreign object then tries to relieve himself without succeeding. He may even experience pain during his unsuccessful expulsive efforts called tenesmus. Sometimes the dog is able to eliminate small amounts of fluids mixed with its stool that can be mistaken for diarrhea. Blood may also be expelled when the foreign body obstructing the digestive tract has caused damage to the digestive tract. These symptoms may be accompanied by vomiting and a refusal to eat.

2. A narrowing of the rectum

Narrowing of the rectum may be due to the presence of a mass inside or outside the intestine that compresses the intestine. The mass can be of different types: tumour, abscess, increase in prostate size etc. In this type of situation, the diameter and appearance of the excrement that the dog manages to expel is often altered.

3. A perineal hernia

This is a displacement of the rectum - between other pelvic and/or abdominal organs - due to a weakening of the support muscles around the anus. In addition to difficulty passing stool, dogs with perineal hernia often have swelling next to the anus.

Dog constipation: when to consult?

It is necessary to consult your veterinarian when constipation:

• Occurs in a puppy less than 6 months old, in an old dog and/or already suffering from a chronic disease,
• Extends beyond 48 hours,
• Is accompanied by one or more other digestive or non-digestive symptoms: pain, presence of blood in the stools, lack of appetite, fever, swollen belly, vomiting, etc..,
• Degrades the general condition of the dog, which then appears weak, dehydrated, dehydrated...
• Intervenes when you suspect your dog has ingested a foreign body.

All of these risk factors should prompt you to call your veterinarian as soon as possible. Depending on the cause of the constipation, the veterinarian has many therapeutic options available to relieve your dog, including enemas, fiber-enriched foods, laxative medications, and even surgery.

How to relieve a constipated dog?

If the dog's general condition is not deteriorated and his constipation does not present any of the risk factors listed above, it is possible to relieve the dog by ensuring that he gets enough hydration, offering him more physical activity, and enriching his diet with fiber. This can be done by adding a few cooked vegetables to his bowl or 1/4 to 1 teaspoon per day of psyllium seeds.

If these are not enough to relieve your dog's constipation, if it lasts longer than 48 hours, or if it's accompanied by other symptoms, consult your veterinarian immediately.

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POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT DOG TRAINING

POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT DOG TRAINING

Many people look on the Internet for methods to solve the problems they encounter in raising their pets. Positive reinforcement dogs training is an excellent tool to encourage learning. Training a dog is not only done when it is young, but continues into its adult life to reinforce its behaviour.

Behavior is said to be reinforced when it is followed by a positive reinforcement, the term "positive" meaning that the reinforcer is presented or given immediately after the action. Positive reinforcements are usually things that are pleasing to the individual or things for which the individual is willing to do a certain amount of work.

In this article from DOG INFO, you will learn about positive reinforcement dog training, its effectiveness and results in training.

What is positive reinforcement?

Among the many dog training methods and techniques around the world, positive reinforcement is an option that allows your dog to understand commands, activities, etc. and associate them with something positive.

The method is simple: it consists of rewarding your dog with treats, cuddles and affectionate words when he performs an action correctly. This method allows the dog to assimilate the whole process in a more fun way and to feel useful by following your instructions.

You can reward him when he sits down or gives his paw, when he adopts a calm attitude, when he behaves well during a game, etc. Positive reinforcement can be applied to an infinite number of cases.

The most common positive reinforcements used in dog training are food and play. However, there are others. Since all dogs are different, everyone will have their own preferences. It is impossible to say that all dogs should be trained with this or that type of food, or that tug-of-war is always an effective reinforcer.

Using a clicker for dog training

The clicker is a positive reinforcement tool. It is a small instrument that emits a noise, improving the animal's attention and perception. It is perfect if you want to train your dog because it will allow you to "capture" the behaviors that you consider good. If you already know this method, find out how to load the clicker to start using it on your dog.

Bad learning tools

Scolding and punishing your dog is not a good way to train him. By putting him in a stressful situation, you only make his reaction worse and prevent him from effectively remembering what you wanted to teach him.

Furthermore, after a while, the dog forgets what he has done wrong and only becomes submissive because he sees that you are angry: he contracts and gets scared when he understands that he has done something wrong, but he doesn't know what it is.

Punitive methods such as a choke or electric collar are very dangerous and negative for the dog, which can lead him to redirect his anger towards the person closest to him, in addition to having a strongly negative effect on his behaviour, making him potentially aggressive, apathetic or anti-social.

Benefits of positive reinforcement

Trainers, veterinarians and ethologists always recommend positive reinforcement for the dog's training, learning in a playful way, which will facilitate their memory. Positive reinforcement also helps to create a better relationship between the animal and its owner. He will feel loved, happy and more socially open.

It is the ideal training method that suits everyone, regardless of experience in dog training, because it offers the opportunity to positively educate your pet, making him happy and confident.

Using positive reinforcement correctly

In our article "BASIC OBEDIENCE ORDERS FOR DOGS", we use the food to make the dog obey the orders and, once done, we reward him (through positive reinforcement) so that he understands that he has worked well. Repeating and continuing to reinforce this order helps the dog understand what he is doing well and why you are rewarding him.

Misuse of positive reinforcement

If, for example, you are teaching your dog to paw, you will need to take care to give him his reward once he has performed the action. If you allow too much time to pass between the action and the reward, or if you give the reward too early, you will prevent your dog from correctly associating the command with the treat.

Positive reinforcement takes time and patience, and the most important thing is to be precise about when you reward the animal.

In our list of common mistakes when scolding a dog, you'll see that the first (and most serious) mistake is scolding him at the wrong time. This kind of attitude harms the animal and causes confusion.

Conclusion

Positive reinforcement is a proven, effective training method, which also allows you to develop a real complicity between you and your dog. The absence of constraint favors a serene learning, with, on the other hand, a lot of training and patience. Exercise is only acquired when you can do it in all situations!

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AGILITY

AGILITY

Agility is one of the best known dog sports in the canine world. Agility is a fun and complete sport, suitable for all dogs over 18 months. A guide (master) must lead the dog on a predefined route that includes various obstacles and this route must be completed as quickly as possible. Finally, the judges determine which dog has won based on their agility and skill.

Why agility?

Agility will allow you to teach your dog new commands. But all this will only be possible if he already obeys basic orders such as sit, lie down, come here,.....Especially since for this sport he must not have a leash, a collar and his master must not touch him.

This sport develops the dog's intelligence and obedience, while strengthening his muscles and your relationship.

Agility also requires a certain concentration because the dog will have to be constantly listening to hear what you are asking him to do.

This sport is strongly recommended to maintain good relations with your dog and thus strengthen your complicity. Throughout the course, you must follow your dog running most of the time. Agility will soon be a pleasant moment for your dog since he will have shared it with you. Moreover, it will allow you to keep a certain physical shape.

Anyone can practice Agility if they feel like it and if they want to spend enough time doing it. You don't need to have advanced knowledge of this activity, nor do you need to have great training skills. Read on to find out how to get started with Agility.

FCI Rules and Regulations

Agility is a type of competition that has international rules drafted by the FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale) which is responsible for organizing the official championship and defining the basic rules. There are also, all over the world, non homologated competitions that allow the free practice of this activity.

Practicing Agility is a fun way to spend time with your pet. You should only practice this activity with an adult dog (at least 18 months old), which is not pregnant if it is female, sick, injured or under treatment. Anyone who engages in this type of practice will be immediately expelled from the training area.

Categories of dogs

As we mentioned earlier, all dogs can practice Agility, as long as they are healthy and motivated. There are three categories in official competitions:

• Category S or small: Dogs in this category must be less than 35 centimeters at the withers.
• Category M or medium: Dogs in this category must be between 35 and 43 centimeters at the withers.
• Category L or large: The last category is for dogs over 43 centimeters at the withers.

Course and types of obstacles

Agility courses are made up of a variety of obstacles randomly placed on the terrain where the competition takes place. The number and variety of obstacles determines the degree of difficulty and the speed at which the dog will have to go. The itinerary must be completed within a set time, with a specific order of obstacles.

A professional Agility course must :

• The track inside it must be at least 22 x 44 yards.
• The length of the course will be between 109 and 218 yards and will include 15 to 20 obstacles (of which at least 7 will be hurdles).
• The size of the hurdles will be proportional to the category of the dog participating in the competition.
• The distance between the obstacles is also fixed according to the category of the dog.
• The guide must be able to stand on both sides of the obstacles.

In addition, the course will be made up of various types of obstacles that the dog will have to overcome :

• Hurdles
• Wall or viaduct
• Wheel
• Toggle
• Palisade
• Gateway
• Canvas tunnel
• Rigid tunnel
• Slalom
• Long jump
• Table

Where can I start practicing Agility

Before registering you and your dog in official Agility competitions in your country, you will have to start Agility training and reach a basic level. It is important that this process is achieved gradually without forcing the dog or physically overworking him.

To do this, you have two options: find a club where people will teach you to practice Agility or make a homemade course, a very fun option, but one that cannot be implemented by everyone.

• Joining a club is a good idea for those who want to practice this sport and register for official competitions, as the professionals will guide you and teach you techniques, ways to encourage your dog, the right rhythm, etc. In addition, during the classes you will be accompanied by other people, which will help your dog's socialization and increase his willingness to see others do it.
• Creating a homemade Agility course is a fantastic idea for those who want to learn independently and without pressure with their pet. If you have a large enough garden and the financial resources to do so, go for it! You'll have a great time with your dog.

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BASIC OBEDIENCE ORDERS FOR DOGS

BASIC OBEDIENCE ORDERS FOR DOGS

Training a dog is more than just teaching him a few tricks to have fun, training stimulates the dog's mind and makes it easier for him to coexist and behave in public.

It is important to have patience and to start working on this project as soon as possible, because your complicity will promote and improve the dog's quality of life and yours. However, doubts may arise and perhaps you don't know where to start, and your dog's education covers a wide range for those who have simply decided to adopt a dog for the first time. If this is your case, Dog Info recommends that you start by taking your new partner to the vet, to de-worm and vaccinate him following the vet's instructions. At the same time, you can start to teach him to be clean and start with the basic orders of your dog's education. Don't know them? Read and learn about them!

The basic obedience orders for dogs

1. Sit!

The first thing to teach a dog is to sit. This is the easiest order to teach and it is natural, so it won't cost him much to learn. If you can get him to sit and he understands that this is the position to wait for his food, before going outside or just when you expect something from him, you will be more comfortable with the next steps. To do this, proceed as follows:

• Take a kibble or a reward for your dog. Let him smell it, then put it in your closed fist.
• Stand in front of your dog as he gives you his attention and waits for his reward.
• Say, "Sit, or sit down." Use whatever word you like.
• With the dog's attention fixed on your fist, begin to follow an imaginary line to the back of the dog, passing over his head.

At first the dog won't understand, he may try to move or turn around your hand, but keep trying until he sits down. Then give him his reward while saying "Good dog, very good" or any other positive expression.

You can use any word you want to teach order, but keep in mind that dogs tend to remember simple words more easily. Once you have chosen a word, you should always use the same one. If one day you say "sit", another "sit down" your dog won't understand and therefore won't obey you.

2. Down!

Just after sitting, teaching him to lie down is another basic order for dogs, easier to get. Also, it is a logical process, because you can say "Don't move" then "Sit", then "Down". The dog will associate all this quickly and will do it almost automatically in the future.

• Stand in front of your dog and say Sit. Once you are seated, say Lie down and point your finger at the floor. If he doesn't react, hide a reward in your hand and lower it with the reward down (without letting go), the dog will automatically be attracted and will lie down.
• Once lying down, give him his reward and say "Good dog" and scratch or pet him to reinforce this attitude.

If you use the trick of hiding the reward in your hand, you should remove it gradually to teach him to lie down, even without a reward.

3. Stay!

Your dog has to learn to stay still in one place, because when visitors come, he goes out for a walk on the street or you just want him to stay away from something or someone this is the best way to get him. And how do you keep him quiet? By following these steps:

• When your dog is sitting, stand next to him on his left or right, choose one of the two directions. Put his leash on and say "Stay!" with the palm of your open hand next to him. Wait a few seconds and if he obeys, come back and say "That's good!" or something like that and reward him with petting.
• Repeat the above process until he manages to stay still for more than 10 seconds. Remember to always reward him first, and then you can alternate between a reward and a simple Good Dog.
• When you succeed in keeping him still, give the command and walk away. If he follows you, come back to him again and give the command. Move a few meters away, then call him and give him a reward.
• Increase the distance until your dog is almost 10-15 meters away, or have someone else call him. Always remember to call at the end and say, "Come here!" or something that tells him to move.

4. Stand!

For this command, which also involves a natural posture, it is best to ask your dog to sit or lie down first. If your dog is in this posture, you can use it as an opportunity to say "Stay" - that's the whole point of teaching him to stand: a dog who knows how to stay in his place will help you in many situations, such as during care or bathing - and then you can attract him to you with a treat.

Repeat the exercise every day, and when he understands the principle, add the word "Stand" and make sure he stays there. If necessary, you can help him to keep this position by placing your other hand under his belly, close to his rear end, while pronouncing the command "Stand up".

As the training progresses, the treat will become less and less indispensable. It will be replaced by a gestural command.

Once your dog has assimilated the exercise well, you can do it again in the garden, then in a little busy street, in a more crowded park.

Just like "Sitting" and "Lying down", you can teach him this order by saying "Stand up" each time he gets into this posture. Give him a treat at the same time, and with observation and repetition, your dog will soon understand what you want from him. You can be sure that he'll be genuinely happy to adopt this position, simply to please you and receive the coveted treat.

5. Come!

You don't want your dog to escape, don't listen to you and don't answer your call. Therefore, calling is the fourth basic order when training a dog, because if he doesn't come to you, you won't be able to ask him to sit, lie down or stay.

• Put a reward under your feet and say "Come here", "Here" or "Come" to your dog without him realizing that you have that reward. At first he won't understand, but when he sees this piece of food he will come quickly. On arrival tell him Good Dog! and then sit down.
• Go somewhere else and repeat the same action, this time without a reward. If he doesn't come, put the reward back under your foot until your dog associates the Come here! with the call.
• Increase the distance more and more until the dog listens to you when you are several meters away. If you link the reward to waiting, he won't hesitate to run towards you when you call him.

Remember to reward him whenever he responds to a basic command, positive reinforcement is the best way to train a dog and any other animal.

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DOG OBEDIENCE

DOG OBEDIENCE

Dog obedience essentially consists of training a dog to respond positively to your commands and indications, thus reaching a basic level of education for the dog. Contrary to popular belief, dog obedience is not synonymous with dog training, but obedience is only part of the training and educating of a dog.

Here, we explain what the keys to dog obedience are to achieve good communication between the owner and the dog. We will also share with you tips on how to link good obedience with basic or advanced training.

Continue reading this article and discover why it is so important to devote time and effort to dog obedience. Let's get started:

Dog obedience levels

There are different requirements for obedience training depending on the objective. In other words, dog obedience will be different if you are training a service dog (such as guide dogs), a dog for sporting competition (e.g. agility) or companion dogs, without any special function other than being extremely pampered.

Although some dogs may be smarter than others, the truth is that good obedience will never be complete if the person training the dog does not have some basic knowledge.

1. Ancient obedience: domination

You've probably already seen an episode of The Dog Whisperer. Caesar Millan's techniques impressed half the world, but that's no longer the case. In fact, in Austria, it is forbidden to broadcast the show on public television. Why is that? The reason is simple, he works in the old obedience, based on domination.

Domination means that you are a "leader" for your dog and techniques reminiscent of natural canine communication such as marking are used. However, this technique comes from a study done with wolves from the last century and it is believed that all disobedient dogs want to be the dominant of the pack formed by us and him.

However, even though using some dog-specific systems is positive, it is important to understand that some techniques can cause discomfort for your pet. Especially if you are not a specialist, using domination is a serious mistake. Furthermore, it is an obsolete system that has proven not to be as effective as other techniques.

Recently, professional ethologists who have studied wolf packs in the wild have proven that there is no aggression between wolves and that they live in harmony. They depend on each other to survive, so it does not make sense for them to continually injure each other. Of course, there is a very important sign language (more pronounced than in dogs) to prevent conflicts.

Why had we seen totally different behaviour before? Quite simply because until now the technology to study wolves in the wild did not exist, all observations had been made on artificial packs kept in captivity. These herds lived under constant stress, which created a high degree of aggression between members.

2. Current obedience: positive reinforcement

As is the case with human relationships, maintaining a positive and confident attitude helps the recipient to understand and is more likely to follow your instructions. The same thing happens with dogs, which is why obedience based on positive reinforcement has emerged.

Positive reinforcement has no secret other than to reward a dog immediately after he has carried out an order correctly or behaved as you wish. The reward is not always a snack, it can also be words of encouragement or petting. This type of technique completely rejects punishment (because it causes stress in dogs) and invites you to use other modes of action that don't interfere with your relationship. Remember that removing punishment from a dog's training does not mean letting him do what he wants. You must guide your dog and teach him to do so.

It will also be interesting to note that nonverbal communication is essential for obedience. Not only should you use a "sit", but it will also be very useful to link it to a gesture. Dogs understand a concrete physical signal better.

The use of the clicker is an improved version of positive reinforcement, but requires more consistency and dedication. It is essentially about "capturing" the behaviors you like from the animal. To use a clicker correctly, you must first charge the sound the object makes for 3 or 4 days: Click and reward the animal with a treat. Later, in the street or at home, you will train it by following the same procedure "sit" - click - treat.

The clicker can be used on any occasion, including those that occur spontaneously. The dog understands that you liked it and associates the "click" with your approval and this increases the chances that he will repeat it.

Allowing the animal to make mistakes and change its behaviour by learning on its own is basic. These techniques that we have proposed to you help him feel comfortable during his education and training, while respecting the animal's well-being. They allow him to learn by himself (which improves his mental stimulation), making him feel useful, preventing behavioural problems and avoiding him to be afraid or too stressed.

Behavioral problems or deviation from obedience

When adopting a dog, you should be aware that your pet may at some point in its life need to have its behaviour monitored by a specialist. Consulting a dog trainer or a dog behaviorist if your dog has behavioural problems can help you considerably, especially if you begin to notice that your dog is not listening to you.

It can also happen that you do not correctly interpret some of his physical and verbal cues, and worse, that you do not respond correctly to these signals. For example, scolding a dog when it grunts is completely counterproductive since the animal may start to attack directly without warning. Growling is a way for dogs to say "leave me alone" or "I don't like it".

How and when to work obedience

• Practicing basic obedience commands for about 5 to 10 minutes a day will be enough time for your dog to start working on it. Spending too much time on training is counterproductive for the animal.
• On the other hand, it is ideal to work on the basic commands one by one, spending between 1 and 10 days on understanding and applying them. The moment the dog fully understands an order, you can move on to the next one.
• It is very positive to devote one day a week to recalling all the commands learned.
• The ideal is to start working on an order in a quiet place without distractions, then gradually move on to places with more traffic so that the dog can respond effectively even with constant distractions.
• Practicing every day and being consistent in obedience ensures a good result.
• Prevent other people from rewarding your dog for free, he should only be rewarded if he responds positively to a command.

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DOG PHYSICAL THERAPY

DOG PHYSICAL THERAPY

When can my dog benefit from physiotherapy?

Physiotherapy is a health science whose role is to allow you to regain your maximum physical capacities. The techniques of physiotherapy, and functional re-education, which have long been known to humans, are now being used successfully in animals. Your dog can benefit from them at some point in his life:

• He has just been surgery or is suffering from the after-effects of a trauma. Physiotherapy will help him to recover faster by fighting the pain and the harmful effects of immobilization.
• He presents neurological problems: partial or complete paralysis, deficiency of one or more limbs. Dog Physical Therapy and functional re-education are essential and very effective to obtain a as complete recovery as possible in the shortest possible time.
• He does not move as well as he used to, is reluctant to go up or down stairs, has difficulty getting up, walking, running, jumping. By fighting the pain, restoring mobility, strengthening his muscles, physiotherapy and rehabilitation will contribute to his comfort and joy of life.
• He is sedentary, gains weight, tends to become obese, lacks of: suppleness, strength and muscle. Dog Physical Therapy and functional re-education can allow him to regain and develop strength, balance, flexibility and preserve his health.

What are the treatment techniques used in physiotherapy and re-education?

We have a wide range of technical means at our disposal which can be classified into different categories:

1. Manual therapies (massage, stretching, reflexotherapy).

2. The physical means among which we will remember:

• Thermal agents: cold, heat
• Electro-therapy (analgesic and neuromuscular stimulation)
• Ultrasounds
• Shock waves
• High-frequency vibratory analgesic therapy.

3. Passive, active therapeutic exercises, to improve flexibility, develop superficial muscles and improve the perception of the body.

These means are not all used to treat an animal but are judiciously chosen according to the problem concerned, its specificity and adapted to each case, because, in reality, physiotherapy is a complex discipline. It is based on his in-depth knowledge of anatomy, physiology, biomechanical pathology, combined with his experience and know-how, that the veterinary physiotherapist will determine which means are the most suitable to treat each particular case.

Home Exercise: What is it all about?

Physiotherapists prescribes a simple exercise program for each patient, which you can carry out yourself at home. They will teach you how to do these exercises on the basis of written instructions and explanatory diagrams.

This is not a standardized program or one that is fixed in time. It can evolve according to the progress made and is established according to each case and the objectives initially set.

Simple exercises to implement, complementary to those practiced during the appointments, these exercises are fundamental for the long-term success of the rehabilitation and allow a faster improvement.

You must devote the necessary time to them, practice them regularly and scrupulously observe the instructions given. It is also the best way to spend valuable time with your partner and to strengthen the bonds of complicity that unite you.

How do I know my dog is suffering?

Unlike humans, animals rarely cry out when they are in pain, especially in cases of chronic pain. Therefore, without careful observation, the owner may not be aware that his dog is suffering. There are, some characteristic signs that must be deciphered:

• Vocalizations = complaints, groans
• Abnormal gait = hops, limps, doesn't put a leg down, lifts it constantly, nods his head, shuts his back, stands still
• General activity = reluctant to get up, lie down, walk, run, run up or down stairs, jumping
• Joy of life = sleeps more often or for a very long time during the day, does not rest at night, is not interested in the environment, responds poorly to caresses, to the voice, becomes irritable, grumpy
• Responses to palpation, caressing an area = tries to avoid, complains, moans, becomes aggressive
• Appetite = decreased, greatly decreased, refuses to eat
• Seeks to lick, bite an area
• Expressions of the face = grin, deformity, loss of liveliness of the gaze.

Why is the veterinarian the best person to practice physiotherapy and animal re-education?

Many people think that physiotherapy and re-education consists mainly of the use of a water walker. Having sophisticated equipment is not enough. In reality physiotherapy and animal rehabilitation is a complex discipline.

It is a medical specialty dedicated to the prevention, diagnosis, treatment and management of disabling conditions, disorders and injuries of the musculo-skeletal, neuromuscular and neurological systems.

The objective is to achieve the return of your pet to functional independence, which requires the rehabilitation of the body as a whole.

In order to establish a precise diagnosis and to set up an adapted and effective treatment protocol, it is necessary to call upon in-depth knowledge in particular in :

• Anatomy
• Physiology, neurophysiology
• Biomechanics
• Pathologies
• Nutrition, etc.

All of this combined with essential training, experience and expertise that only a veterinary physiotherapist can provide.

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